My guide to the best butter sauce for pasta - The Burnt Butter Table (2024)

Two types of butter pasta sauces

1. Browned butter - This is pure butter on it's own, melted down until the milk solids separate and start to brown. You might have done this when baking as recipes often call for a browned butter as it adds such an amazing nutty flavour. This is the simplest sauce you can make and I often add sage to it which adds a beautiful herby note to the butter. I have a dedicated recipe so check out my 10 minute brown butter for pasta recipe!
2. Emulsified butter sauce - this is the second and probably most common butter sauce I make. Don't be scared by the word emulsified. It just mean when different liquids come together to make a smooth sauce. This is when I add in pasta water and often lemon juice to turn the butter into more of a sauce.

What is brown butter?

It's simple! Brown butter is the result of melting butter until the milk solids in the butter separate and brown. It also evaporates some of the water so you'll often end up with less than you started with. It's a really simple process and creates a rich, nutty taste that is PERFECT for pasta! Most commonly you might have browned butter when baking (The Cloudy Kitchen Brown Butter Choc Chip Cookies are a staple in my house). There are very clear stages when browning butter which you will get to know really well.

Firstly the butter will melt and then start to sizzle. It will get quite loud and crackly with bigger bubbles. Then it will quieten down considerably and that is when the top starts to foam. This is the stage you need to keep a really good eye on it. It's often quite hard to see what is going on under all that foam so swirl the pan or use a spatula to check those brown bits aren't getting too dark!

How to make brown butter for pasta

1. Melt the butter over medium heat in a large fry pan.
2. As soon as it starts to sizzle add your sage leaves in if using.
3. It will take 3 - 4 minutes to start to foam up, you really need to watch it and you need to take it off the heat as soon as the milk solids are brown. If they are black you have likely taken it too far and it will taste burnt.
4. Swirl the pan every so often so it browns evenly and the milk solids don't stick to the bottom of the pan.
5. You can add your pasta straight in or spoon the sauce over the pasta on plates.

Tips for the best brown butter pasta sauce

• Don't have your heat too high. A nice medium heat, turn it down if you think it's browning too quickly.
• Use a light coloured pan. I always brown butter in a stainless steel pan purely so I can see what is going on. With a dark or black pan you'll really be guessing.
• Start with your butter in cubes so it browns evenly. Swirling the pan and running a spatula along the bottom also helps with this.
• If you are going to add your pasta straight into the pan, take the sage leaves out first as you don't want them getting soggy with any stray pasta water that may get splashed in.
• Don't over do it! The milk solids can go from brown to black VERY quickly. If they blacken you'll have to start again.

How to make an emulsified butter sauce for pasta

This is the second and probably most common butter sauce I make. This is when I add in pasta water and often lemon juice to turn the butter into more of a sauce. Try it with absolutely any pasta shape, fresh or dried. A simple hand rolled pici or gnocchi sardi are fun ones to try.

1. You'll have your pasta already cooking as the sauce is so quick. If you drain your pasta then make sure you reserve a good cup of the cooking liquid.
2. Melt the butter over medium heat and when it starts to sizzle add the pasta water in.
3. You then need to whisk it quite vigorously while shaking the pan at the same time so the two liquids mix together.
4. Add the lemon juice if using and whisk again. I have a reel on my instagram where you can see this process.

Why pasta water is your best friend!

You'll hear me harp on about the magic that is pasta water in 99% of my recipes. It really is a key ingredient in every sauce I make. The starch left behind in the water acts as a thickening agent and helps sauces cling to the pasta. I couldn't make a sauce without it.

I never EVER drain my pasta in a colander, I always transfer it directly to the sauce using aspider strainer. That way the pasta pot full of water is left there for you to ladle in as you need. if you have seen my reels oninstagramyou'll notice my sauces are SAUCY.

Pasta soaks up liquid so quickly so I add enough pasta water to make it quite liquidy. By the time I serve into bowls and take to the table it hasn't dried up. You'll get to know what the right consistency is with some practice, you can't go wrong though I promise!